Heavenlyz
Animal Hotel - Grooming Training Centre
Pet Product Shop - Grooming Salon

Copyright

All material found on the website (this page and all others) is copyright (1999 - 2004) to Liza Cox, Heavenlyz.

Any reproduction of this website, in whole or in part, without the express prior permission of the copyright owner will render you liable to prosecution.

Disclaimer

Please note that Heavenlyz Boarding Kennels and Cattery cannot provide veterinary services.

Animals requiring treatment will be referred to a veterinary surgeon of your choice.

Choosing good boarding kennels

A substantial number of pet boarding establishments in this country are well run, caring in their attitude and a safe environment for your animals. However, in any industry there will always be those who are interested in profit only and pay lip service to health and safety. The consequences of leaving your loved one with someone taking that attitude could be serious. Therefore, when boarding your animal you need to be sure that they will be looked after as if they were at home.

kennels outside kennels inside kennel reception

The owners and staff at Heavenlyz have boarded animals at many animal hotels in the past and now that we have our own kennels we can ensure that it adheres to the highest standards. We'd like to share our experiences and thoughts with you.

To understand what makes a good boarding kennels, it is helpful to understand how they are legislated (at least in England).

The Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH) periodically revises it's "Model Licensing Conditions" and issues the revisions to all local authorities. These are "model" licensing conditions and as such the local authority has the power to modify these conditions within their own jurisdiction. Local authorities are more likely to relax conditions than make them more stringent. Therefore, a kennels that aspires to the CIEH model license conditions could be considered a step ahead of the rest. Also, note that local authority conditions will vary from one local authority to another (bear this in mind as you travel around). Local authorities environmental health officers review their own licensing conditions on average once a year.
This coincides with the term of all Kennel licenses (i.e. Kennels must apply and pay to be re-licensed each year). Some local authorities are more proactive than others and will re-license the kennels in their area before current licenses expire. Other local authorities may not be quite as prompt. Therefore, a boarding kennel not displaying a current license is not necessarily trading illegally (though it would be in your interests to question the establishments owner about this issue). If interested, copies of this documentation should be available from the relevant local authority's environmental health department.

To help you choose the best kennels for your dog, we've come up with the following process. An animal is a valuable member of the family, almost like a child. Some of the questions below may seem a bit daunting but if you're asking them to a responsible kennels owner they should be happy to answer. They should realise that you're entrusting the care of someone you love to a person or persons you probably don't know. Choosing holiday accommodation for your pet could be considered a similar responsibility to choosing a childminder for your child.

You can use all or part of this process. Doing it this way, even partially, is better than choosing a kennels without any investigation. Lastly, if you have a particularly favourite kennels now, you may wish to use this criteria to assess their standards.

  1. Start well in advance of your holiday...the best kennels will be booked up weeks, or even months, in advance. The less time you leave to organise your pet's holiday, the more likely you'll have to settle for second best or you may even be forced into boarding your dog with a sub standard kennels.
  2. Make a list of all the kennels that you would be willing to travel to in order to board your dog. If your dog gets stressed by travelling then you should consider this as part of your criteria.
  3. Talk to dog owning friends of yours about their recommendations and, more importantly, how and why they chose the kennels they currently use.
  4. Come up with a set of standard questions for each kennels, phone each kennels in turn and compare their answers to those suggested below (in most cases the answers given should be similar or the same as those in the table below – where they differ, you should ask why). It's also a good idea to record their answers for future reference/investigation and look for corroboration of those answers from other sources. At the same time, consider whether the responses were given in a friendly, courteous manner. The overall professionalism on the telephone may point towards an organised, efficiently run, caring kennels.
  5. From the answers given, decide on a shortlist. Go and see each establishment in turn. Any kennels that refuses to give you a guided tour within opening hours should be struck off your list immediately (most kennels should be able to show you around, even if you have to wait while they finish their current activity).
  6. Use your instincts as you look around: -
  • Check whether the answers given over the telephone were plausible now that you are seeing the accommodation with your own eyes (e.g. how does a kennel who claimed to have every unit heated explain an apparent lack of wiring)
  • How does the kennel feel generally (e.g. were the staff clean, tidy or even wearing uniforms)?
  • Do all the dogs have clean bedding that's raised from the floor (e.g. via a dog bed)?
  • Are the dogs all eating the same food or do they have individually prepared meals?
  • How does the kennel smell? If the kennel owner employs a proper hygiene and cleaning process the kennel should smell no worse than your own house
  • Does the kennels keep a register of the details of all the animals they are boarding (including name, microchip no., tattoo no., description, breed, age, gender, name, address, emergency contact details, etc...)
  1. Phone the local vets that surround the remaining kennels and enquire how each kennel compares, which one(s) they would recommend and whether they've had any problems with a particular kennels.
  2. Phone the UK associations that they are currently accredited to, just so you can confirm that is the case
  3. Phone the training establishments referred to and confirm the details that you were told
  4. Having chosen the kennels you wish, give your dog a trial stay sometime before your main holiday. Use this as a test by checking how the dog was received, how professional the staff act, how they relate to your pet. Having retrieved your dog at the end of the stay, talk to the staff about how he/she enjoyed the experience. Ask them if there were any problems. Work with the staff to increase the happiness of your pet on future occasions.
  5. Board your dog in the kennels a few days before you're due to go on holiday. A couple of days afterwards, arrive without warning in order to check on your pet. Although doing this costs you extra money, the peace of mind that you get will more than make up for it.

Lastly, go on holiday, stop worrying and enjoy yourself! If you've done your homework, then that's exactly what your animal is doing.

Sample question Sample answer, if possible
What is your pricing structure? Note that the cost of boarding your dog can not be considered an indication of the amount of care it will receive.
Are there any surcharges (e.g. heating, insurance, food...)? The more surcharges, the less value the kennels actually is. This may also be a pointer towards poor organisation and/or an attempt to disguise the truth
Describe your kennels?
  • For dogs, where wood is used in accommodation it should be treated (e.g. Tanalised)
  • All metal should be galvanised, of 10 to 14 gauge and, if latticed, having spacing designed to avoid the risk of entrapment.
  • All surfaces should be smooth, impervious to fluid and easily cleaned.
  • Walls should divide each unit (both indoors and outdoors) to a height of at least 4ft (1.22m)
  • Doors should be full height and lockable
  • Each unit should comprise an indoor and outdoor area
  • Both indoor and outdoor areas should be covered and weatherproof/draught-proof
  • Indoor and outdoor areas should be separated by an opening and closing door of sufficient height for your animal to comfortably walk through
  • The building which house the units should be regularly maintained (e.g. a regularly painted kennels is a good pointer towards care)
  • The size of both indoor and outdoor areas (width by length by height) should be stated - for one medium size dog, model licensing conditions requires a minimum size of 20 square foot (1.85 square meters) for indoor and 26 square foot (2.41 square meters) for outdoor areas. Several or larger dogs should have even bigger accommodation.
  • Where there is more than one type of kennel unit used, all should be described (just because your dog starts in one unit does not mean that he will remain there for the duration of his/her stay. Therefore it is the overall standard of accommodation that should be considered).
  • The kennels should be attached to main drainage or another approved method of sewerage disposal.
  • During daylight hours, natural lighting should be abundant in the indoor areas (during evenings, supplementary light should be provided until bedtime)
Environment
  • How do you maintain a consistent climate within the kennels?
  • How do you decide whether an animal needs heating or not?
The best form of heating will be one that warms only the dog, his/her bed and the air that he/she breathes.
The areas between dogs should be kept cool, minimising the breeding of bacteria and the transmission of disease.

Heat lamps are the recommended form of heating. They are designed to heat only the immediate area onto which they shine (which is normally the dog bed) and therefore adhering to the criteria above. Ideally therefore, there should be a heat lamp for each unit used all year round (nb. Nights are sometimes still cold in Summer). The heat lamp should also be matched with the animal in question (i.e. the bigger the animal, the higher the bulb wattage and the wider the shade circumference - and vice versa).
Other forms of heating include: -
  • electric beds or mats (which will still heat the underside of the animal but will NOT warm the air that he/she breathes)
  • Convection fan heaters placed outside sleeping areas (which won't give each animal any direct heat but which will keep the whole block warm, allowing bacteria &viruses to breed)
  • Under floor heating (dependant on construction will heat the underside of the animal and the spaces between animals).
If heat lamps are not available in each unit, the kennels should at least have enough heating systems to keep the block warm during the coldest winter nights.
The temperature should never fall below 50oF/10oC. The kennels should also be suitably ventilated/shaded for the hottest summer days. Thermometers should be placed at strategic points and monitored regularly. The best answer is one that lends itself to consistency of climate (for each individual animal) and increased supervision of animals more at risk to extremes of temperature than others.
I have a large dog (e,g, Great Dane). Would you feed my dog in a specific way? The answer to this should include the fact that deep-chested dogs (like Great Danes or Greyhounds) need their food bowls raised (on platforms or feeders) in order to prevent gastric torsion's (twisted intestines), the intake of air (which increases the likelihood of gastric torsion) and muscle strains.
What food brands do you make available to the animals? You're looking for a good range of products catering for the sizes, ages and health of the animals boarded.
How often do you check water bowls? This should be done first thing in the morning, frequently during the day (especially in summer) and last thing at night. Water bowls should also be washed daily to guard against algae. There is no reason for nor should there ever be a lack of water.
How much would it cost me to board my <<species of dog>> between <<start of separation>> and <<end of separation>>? This should form a basis of a quote from which the end payment should not vary significantly. Also, if in further discussions the quote varies for no apparent reason then this may be a pointer to a lack of professionalism.
Which vaccinations do you insist on?
** (Kennel Cough)
This Vaccine is Mandatory at Heavenlyz for all our Canine Guests
The stringency on requiring vaccinations varies from one local council to another and there is a current debate as to how frequent animal vaccinations should be. The CIEH model license conditions advise only taking vaccinated animals, where the vaccination has been formally recorded (on an individual card) and the vaccinations were carried out at least 28 days prior to boarding. If you don't believe in vaccinations then you should be happy placing your animal with others who are unvaccinated (and potentially, more at risk). However, if you do believe in at least the necessity for vaccinations then you should choose a kennels that insists (without exception) on animals being properly vaccinated against the following:-
  • Canine Distemper
  • Infectious Hepatitis
  • Canine Adenovirus
  • Leptospirosis
  • Parvovirus
There is another disease called "Kennel Cough" **. This name is misleading, as the bacterium or viral strain involved does not only occur in kennels. It is air born and can be passed on anywhere that dogs are in close proximity with each other (e.g. parks, walks). Constantly barking dogs are more likely to contract this disease as the bacterium in question finds sore throats a very easy target. Vaccinations against Kennel Cough are not mandatory but are especially recommended during peak season (April – October). Kennel Cough can be avoided by proper screening on arrival of the dog (responsible, well trained, kennels owners should not allow infectious dogs to be boarded). If Kennel Cough does become apparent then hygiene, cleaning (the use of a good disinfectant like Trigene) and proper building maintenance are effective barriers to transmission. This will mitigate the vast majority of the risk of your animal contracting kennel cough.
Licensing -
  • Which local authority licenses you?
  • Is there any way in which you diverge from the license regulations?
This should be the local authority in which the kennels is situated. Remember this, you need it later on.

The kennels should not diverge from it's licensing conditions unless it has a dispute with the licensing authorities and that dispute is being progressed by both parties.

The license document should be displayed in a prominent place (ask to see it if not) indicating the maximum number of dogs that may be boarded.
Are you approved by any UK recognised animal societies? Any positive answers are a plus. However, remember the answer for later.
Animal attention
  • What is your daily routine of work? (especially what time do you wake the dogs up and what time do you put them to bed)
  • What is the average staff to animals ratio?
It is unreasonable (and detrimental to welfare of animals in care) to expect a kennels to "work" 24hrs a day ("work" in the context of feeding, cleaning, etc). However, you should expect the kennels to provide a similar environment and routine to that which your pet has at home. You should also expect the kennels to maintain a presence on site 24hrs a day in case of emergency. A daily routine of work that involves many activities and lots of animal contact, points towards good care and vice versa. The staff to animals' ratio should complement the daily routine. If there is only one member of staff all day every day carrying out many activities and there is a substantial number of animals being boarded this may point to a lack of individual animal attention. Imagine the time it would take one person to safely and properly walk dozens of animals individually.
Do you concentrate on kennels or do you run any other businesses at the same time? If done properly and responsibly, running a kennels is time consuming and hard work. Imagine taking care of dozens of clones of your own pet giving them all the same affection and attention that they expect now. You should expect any kennels owner who spends time breeding and/or showing their own private animals (which is also a very time consuming activity) to explain how they ensure that this other impact on their time is not detrimental to your animals once in their care.
How qualified are your staff and what previous animal experience did they have? All permanent staff should have had some official animal care training or currently be in a training course. The main kennel assistant qualification is the National Vocational Qualification (NVQ) levels 1 or 2. Any kennel staff trained by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS) should be considered a very positive recommendation.

If this is the case ask which official body they were trained by, what course they attended, when they attended these courses and whether they attended these courses under their current names (e.g. because of marriage). Also, enquire what other kennels they have worked for before, why they left and how long they've worked for their current kennels.
What other kinds of animals do you board? A boarding establishment that boards a variety of species should have the knowledge in which to do this. Where this is not the case it could be a pointer towards an establishment that puts profit too far ahead of care
What would you do in case of illness? Well stocked 1st Aid kits (one for each boarding block) should be maintained, both for animals and staff.

The answer should be easily given and should follow something similar to: -
  • Assess the problem in-house
  • Phone the VET for advice
  • Isolate the animal, if necessary (for the protection of other dogs – this, particularly, is a great pointer towards proper care)
  • Phone the owner or contact number to discuss
  • Take any remedial action as required
  • Monitor the animal regularly and communicate any change in status
Are there any particular types of dog you would be uncomfortable boarding? The boarding of entire females in season is not sensible due to the disruption and stress that it will cause.
My pet has never been boarded. What would you advise to ease his/her stress? Several things can mitigate against stress: -
  • A trial night or weekend of boarding prior to an extended separation (this will allow the dog, yourselves and the kennels to assess it)
  • The provision of a comforter (an unwashed blanket or soft toy) from home
  • The use of homeopathic medicine and aromatherapy will help to reduce anxiety and stress (visit your local health shop or veterinary surgeon for advice)
The kennels should be able to suggest these and possibly some more ideas. If they can't, it points towards a lack of either knowledge or care.
What precautions do you make against fire?
  • All electricity should be sourced by suitable wiring leading from a modern consumer unit with circuit breakers
  • There should be a presence on, or within earshot of, site 24hrs a day
  • Fire extinguishers should be provided and these should be serviced by a recognised engineer at least once per year
What precautions do you make against flood? This question is included because of the incident in the west country where several dogs drowned when they remained locked in their kennels.

If the kennels site is protected naturally, then the kennels should be able to state that (i.e. it may be at the top of a hill or on the side of a valley). If there is doubt whether the kennels is protected naturally then there should be a presence on, or within earshot of, site 24hrs a day and an emergency action plan known to all staff.
What precautions do you make against theft?
  • All buildings should be secured at night (all keys should be readily to hand)
  • The kennels may have it's own guard dogs
  • The kennels may have an alarm system
  • There should be a presence on, or within earshot of, site 24hrs a day
  • Each kennel unit should have a plaque or notice giving details of the dogs staying there (in order to instantly identify missing animals)
  • The grounds should be secure (i.e. no open boundaries or poor fencing)
  • Only the owner (or another previously notified person) should be allowed to collect the animal
What precautions do you make against escape?
  • Each kennel unit should be secure and partitioned fully from any other
  • Each set of kennel units should have an enclosing escape run
  • The grounds should be secure (i.e. no open boundaries or poor fencing)
  • There should be a presence on, or within earshot of, site 24hrs a day
What precautions do you make against injury?
  • If required, the owner must make a positive statement that dogs from the same family are suitable to board in the same accommodation and be walked at the same time (even then, these dogs should be considered a higher risk to each other and monitored accordingly)
  • Dogs from separate families should never be boarded together (unless given the express permission of the owner)
  • Dogs from separate families should never be walked together (unless given the express permission of the owner)
  • The kennel units should be built and equipped to a safe standard (e.g. sturdy walls, no rusty, jagged edges on metal, properly shielded electrical wiring)
  • Legislation requires collars to remain on animals for identification purposes. However, there is debate at the moment over whether leaving a dog collar on could endanger the animal by inadvertant choking. Kennel owners should at least be aware of this issue.
What precautions do you make against disease? In much the same way as when humans go on holiday, disease is probably the greatest single risk to your animal when being boarded. Combined with a suitable vaccination policy, cleanliness is the most effective way to minimise the risk of disease. All areas (kennels, corridors, kitchens) should be kept clean and free from dust. All occupied areas should be cleaned twice daily of any soiling materials. Bedding should be regularly checked and kept clean and dry. Refrigerators and food storage areas should be cleaned regularly, even if they appear free from dirt.

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